For the second night in a row, we weren't haunted by armies of mosquitos. Apparently the stronger wind from the lake that we had just... well, probably it blows them away. Someone somewhere inland must be suffering from these little fellows now, because here at the shore, they're gone.
In the morning, we visit Father Andrej from the Kasepää Church, at his home. He is a very charismatic and interesting man who knows very much about history and cultures, and has clear and often very strong opinions on plenty of things. He didn't allow us to film him, arguing that being filmed is not his purpose - just as a singer's purpose is to sing, and a carpenter's purpose is to make nice things from wood, his purpose is to spread the word of God, but not to be filmed. We did an interview anyway, since he is a very nice source of information and is a good storyteller, with a beautiful sense of humour. Particularly impressive is how he tells the history of the Old Believers, from the time when the Orthodox church split off and the Old Believers were prosecuted in 17th century Russia (which is why some of them arrived in Estonia respectively Swedish Livonia, of which this region was a part back then - a place where they could live in peace and practise their faith freely).
How Father Andrej breaks down historical processes and events to individual human weaknesses and desires, how he explains the reformation of church rules in this period as essentially the struggle of individual people to achieve more power, was not only very impressive and human, but also very entertaining. Father Andrej went on to show us some of his treasures, of which we were also allowed to take photographs (although still no video). Amazingly beautiful old books with the Old Believer's songs and the religious rules, a cross, and other items he holds dear.
He invited us to join the church service tomorrow Sunday morning, and although we won't be allowed to film there, too, we will anyway go. Maybe Father Andrej will change his mind, and even if not, it will be good to attend a full service at least once. Even if this means to wake up really, really early in order to be at church before 7:00 in the morning.
In the middle of the day, we're supposed to meet the fisherman in Varnja who will bring us over to Piirisaare, the border island which is located at a narrow part of the lake, only about one kilometre from both the Estonian and the Russian mainland. Pjotr, the fisherman, brings his friend along who is actually from Ukraine and currently on a little trip around this region. The four of us, Pjotr and his friend squeeze into a small motorboat and head off to the island: A beautiful boat ride of maybe 40 minutes.
As we arrive on the island, Pjotr arranges that a lady called Maria will pick us up from the harbour. She's a key person on the island, a very opinionated and strong lady, who immediately starts telling us about some problems they have with the Estonian Nature Protection organization. She is indeed a very active personality who tries to do a lot for the community, and is naturally very happy that a while ago, a regular ferry service to the mainland has started working again, and that the European Union financed the construction of a new harbour building, which will be opened in a few weeks.
Maria takes the time to drive us around the island, showing us different places. At one corner, we meet a woman who just smoked some fish and walks with it toward her home - and with the help of Maria, we manage to buy our lunch from this woman. Freshly smoked fish, even with a self-made sauce, which we eat in the harbour building.
Also on the island, we meet a very nice elderly woman who tells us about their life in the Second World War, when the German and the Soviet armies were at different times ruling the place, many houses were destroyed in bombings by the German army, and other buildings were taken away from the people living there and turned into bunkers.
Unfortunately, the weather turns bad short after we arrive on the island: Heavy rain and a thunderstorm make it impossible to predict whether we'd make it back to the mainland at all this day, or we'd have to find a place to sleep on the island. We stay relaxed and keep filming around the island, and talking to people, but agree with Pjotr that the moment he says the weather is good enough, we'll have to run and leave in order to make it back to the mainland before the weather would turn bad again. Short before 20:00, this is the case: It's still cloudy, but the wind has calmed down, and the fisherman considers it "relatively safe" to go back. So we go, and get all wet, since the rain starts again short after we leave the island. Nevertheless the boat ride back is a lot of fun - it's bumpy, wet, the waves are rather big, and Pjotr drives the boat pretty fast in order to avoid any possible worse weather that might start. A small adventure and a fun ride, indeed - after all, other people pay money in amusement parks for a similar feeling, which we get in real life on the surface of a beautiful lake, wind and water in our faces.
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