Day 21: The Sisters, church service, storm warning

We went to film Matyushka Varvara's church service. The services are a intimate affair, and we're very glad this is already the third time we're allowed in to film. As mentioned earlier, these are the moments where we realize how important it is that we have time to spend here at the lake. It would hardly be possible to just walk up here and film inside of a church. Every of the village priests (respectively the ceremony leaders) is initially reluctant to let us take photos or film video inside the churches; and even more hesitant to allow us to shoot the actual church service. But since we have time, we are able to meet them again and again, to discuss interesting topics, listen to their views, and simply build up some trust over time. We have the impression that we are pretty welcome here by now, and people seem to like what we are doing, and they seem to like us. At least the reception is always very positive and friendly, and today, another unusual opportunity opened as we were allowed to film the church service of Matyushka Varvara.

Varvara is the elder sister of Mrs. Filipova, ten years older, and the two ladies are almost a story in themselves. The family story of the Filipova's is very colorful anyway, as we wrote on Sunday. And here they are, two sisters, on 80 years old, the other 70 years old. The elder one is the head of the local church, and the younger one runs one of the most important businesses in the region. Both are very rooted in the local culture and identity, both are devoted and full of a sense of duty. An interesting situation, to see the two ladies in their respective positions.

Varvara initially didn't want us to film the icons in her church, but then changed her mind and allowed us to film the ceremony. We did so very carefully, in a touching ceremony and with the church pretty full (from the three services we've seen until now, this time was clearly the most visited). Yet we didn't film very much, just a few short takes here and there, in order not to disturb and of course with the goal to be invited to come back again, maybe to film more next time, when the people attending the church service would already be more used to us. And we were invited to come again, namely on Sunday, when we will be able to film Varvara preparing for the church service, and the service itself.

Part of the reason for being reluctant about us filming the church service is certainly religious, but part of it is very worldly: Some time ago, someone broke into the church and apparently stole icons and other valuables. They have since installed an alarm system.

The weather is turning worse, a storm was announced for tonight, the rain won't stop for even a moment, Bettina is already wearing four layers of clothes but secretly wishes for a fifth. The sauna in the evenings is what keeps us alive, and at least so far, we're not even catching a cold. The autumn is becoming gloomier and gloomier, people seem more reserved, barely anyone is on the streets, it's windy and cold, and it seems to us it takes a little bit more effort to convince people we meet for the first time to speak with us, which was easier in summer.

Day 12: Fishing business, planning trips, review

Woke up early to meet the Filipov family, who agreed to give us a tour through their fish factory and their house. The Filipovs most probably are the richest family in these villages - the factory is impressive, and the house is beautiful and decorated pompously, including of course some impressive icons in the dining room.

Mrs Filipova explains us how they started and developed their business, from nothing to what it is today, all self-made and with a lot of entrepreneurial spirit. It's a family business, in a way, with Mrs Filipova's three sons all working for the factory. So we were told the story of the family business and shown the beautiful house, learned also that Mrs Filipova is the sister of Matjushka Varvara whom we met earlier.

We wanted to go fishing, but they explain us that it's not possible right now: Fishing in Lake Peipus is only allowed at certain times, and currently we're in the "dry season". There's only some smoked fish left in the storage, no new catches are coming in. From about mid September until November, fishing will be allowed again, so we agree that they will take us out for a fishing trip when we come back in autumn.

After meeting the Filipov family, we face more rain and stormy weather, so we go back and cook some pasta using the tomatoes that Osip from Raja sold us the other day. We go to the cute little Kivi Korts, the cafe/bar/restaurant where we stop once in a while, to have a cup of coffee and to review all the material we filmed so far, since tomorrow during the day we're already leaving, and it's time to understand what we've achieved and what's still missing, what topics we think we covered and where we want to dig deeper, so we can prepare for our next trip here in autumn. From the first look and review, we're quite happy with the results of these first 12 days. Half a day more to go tomorrow, then we're off until autumn.